So this is how things swirl around here. Friday morning, we’re in class reading a poem by Kadia Molodowsky, a much-loved Yiddish writer who died in 1975, when we suddenly can’t hear the teacher, because a brass band is playing. Out the window, which is on the second floor of the ancient Vilnius University (founded 1570), we overlook the front courtyard of Lithuania’s White House, where the president works and (sometimes) lives. And indeed, there she is, President Dalia Grybauskaitė herself, reviewing the troops.

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