Every city needs a place like Užupis, and I suppose over the years many have had them — districts close enough to be part of the urban scene but just outside the central jurisdiction, so that popular activities viewed as unwelcome in the city proper can still thrive. Užupis means “over the river,” the river being the Vilnia, a small creek that flows into the larger Neris just behind Vilnius’ central square. In Polish the area is called Zarzecza, which means the same thing.

Long a refuge for artists and bohemians, Užupis whimisically declared its independence from the rest of Vilnius in 2000, putting up border signs, stamping passports and writing up a Constitution that today is displayed in 24 languages along one of the district’s two main streets. In English, the document begins:

1. Everyone has the right to live by the River Vilnelė, and the River Vilnelė has the right to flow by everyone.
2. Everyone has the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof.
3. Everyone has the right to die, but this is not an obligation.
4. Everyone has the right to make mistakes.
5. Everyone has the right to be unique.
6. Everyone has the right to love.
7. Everyone has the right not to be loved, but not necessarily.
8. Everyone has the right to be undistinguished and unknown.
9. Everyone has the right to idle.
10. Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat.

Inevitably, bohemian Užupis is quickly becoming upscale, as interesting restaurants and galleries draw apartment developers to neighborhoods that used to mainly feature artistic squatters and interesting drunks. But it’s still a cool place to wander around, and the offbeat goofiness is a welcome antidote to the heavy history that hangs over the city.